GETTING THERE:
Drive west on Highway 4 on Vancouver Island BC. Turn right onto West Main a few kilometers before the Ucluelet/Tofino junction on Highway 4. Drive NNW for about 20 minutes until you arrive at Kennedy Lake.
Map courtesy Wild Coast MagazineClose to a thousand people were arrested for blockading logging in Clayoquot during the summer of 1993. The arrests took place at Kennedy River bridge, a steel and wood bridge spanning the river that flows from Kennedy Lake into the Pacific Ocean. This is the first of two bridges you will come across when driving along West Main to get to Kennedy Lake. Most photos of the 1993 blockade are of this bridge.
There is little evidence left of the 1993 protest today but it is worth taking a short walk down the boat launch on the west side of the bridge. Down by the water from that side, one can view a section of the bridge moorings that was burnt, the result of arson during 1993 when two men attempted to burn down the bridge to stop logging. It didnt work. Someone was on the watch there who smelled diesel, put the fire out, and saw the men speed off in a boat. The two were eventually caught and convicted for arson in this act of eco-terrorism.
Looking right towards onto the lake from the Kennedy River bridge.
Looking left from Kennedy River bridge. Paddlers can follow Kennedy River downstream from here. The river winds through the Kennedy River Bog park and eventually to the ocean. This is a trip for next time.
We took a few minutes to walk out to the bridge as it offers scenic views on both sides. Sections of the bridge have deteriorated a surprising amount since logging stopped in Clayoquot just over ten years ago. Large pieces of the bridge have rotten and fallen away.
We launched out canoe at the beach there, which itself is a beautiful spot to camp. Be warned though – the place has the moniker “Redneck” beach for a reason. Expect traffic and noise if you stay there as the place is well-known hangout for partiers. Jeff Foxworthy would even shy away from the clientele that sometime visit this beach. This newspaper story from a few months back tells of a 30 person brawl that happened there. Campers seeking relatively more quiet will want to stay at "Rainbow" beach, which is a few hundred meters west of "Redneck" and accessible only by foot or boat.
The view onto Kennedy Lake from "Redneck" beach.
Once in the water, hug the left hand shore to access the channel leading into Clayoquot Arm.
This is the view into Clayoquot Arm from the Kennedy Lake bridge.
As you can see, the weather here can be very unpredictable and change from sunny to stormy in minutes. Despite some foreboding clouds, we managed to stay dry on our first day.
Looking back to the Kennedy Lake bridge about a kilometer up the arm.
Depending on your boat type and wind conditions, the entire arm can take around 2-4 hours to paddle. Your camping options on Clayoquot Arm will depend on how early you get there. Although most choose to stay at spots on the left side near the north end of the lake, it looks like the right side also offers spots, although less scenic since most of the interesting geography is on the left side of the lake. Regardless, you will undoubtedly find places everywhere as you paddle along. Keep in mind that most of the sandy camping spots are farther up the lake on the left side. Take a pair of binoculars to make finding a camping site easier from afar.
We were running late and did not get far up the arm on our first day. We managed to find a little sheltered spot and set up camp for the night.
To be continued…
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